Keep your fingers crossed that we get on the Blue Star tomorrow...
Monday, April 30, 2007
Friday, April 27, 2007
Pretty cool huh?
Oddly, some enterprising local or archaeologist thought that these stones could be combined to make sculpture by putting a worn out mortar on top of a grinder. We thought they were right.
After completing our work at Numeira, we retired to a shady tree for a magnificent feast of sardines, hummus, olives, and oranges. We then visited the site of Bab edh-Dhra (meaning "Gate of the Arm" in Arabic) about 15 kms north of Numeira, also an Early Bronze site and very well known to archaeologists for the extensive cemetery (one of the few known from the period anywhere in the southern Levant). There was also a walled town site near the cemetery; much of the town site has disappeared as severe erosion takes away the north side. Bab edh-Dhra was first occupied during the Early Bronze I, or first major phase of the Early Bronze Age, but continued to grow, with a wall built around the town estimated at about 10 acres.
In the cemetery, shaft tombs were dug into the soft chalky marls, and the remains of between 2-10 people were deposited in the chamber, including men, women, and some children (infants were rare). Mortuary goods were also included, including hand made pottery, bowls made of basalt, maceheads and other iterms. Unfortunately the site has been looted for years, destroying the majority of tombs and leaving scattered broken artifacts and human bones.
Here you can see the "Craters of Bab edh-Dhra", where a vast cemetery has been turned into a wasteland. Looters will make very little money for the items they find but the middlemen who buy them will enjoy a hefty mark-up. Unfortunately the destruction to the archaeological remains is devastating.
We had a very good, productive day and after the disheartening site of Bab edh-Dhra, we went off to visit the PPN site of 'Dhra, just up the road. The site has been excavated so there is very little to see now, but the flowers were in bloom, the goats were happy, and the blade cores bountiful, so all in all, a fine finish to the field day. We then headed off for the new Panorama overlook site, where the breeze keeps the ghor flies at bay and the capucho is pretty good. We also had to go looking for a gas station after climbing the hill to the Panorama overlook.Thanks everyone for all the hard work!
Monday, April 23, 2007
1. The "Fly America" flights from Amman leave at a reasonable hour and not at 2:50am,
2. United Airlines is a code share with Lufthansa, which means you get to spend a delightful 12 hours in the Frankfurt Airport waiting for a connecting flight,
3. You can always book your seat ahead of time ensuring the most legroom and the best view of the movie,
4. They often don't have a movie, which means extra quality sleep time,
5. And finally "Fly America" doesn't allow your final destination to be troublesome countries like Canada.
So after arriving at Washington Dulles, I waited around for another 4 hours for my flight to Toronto, only to be told that I was on standby because I didn't originate in the US. Luckily two drunken, seasoned business travellers interceded on my behalf at Dulles (they could see the impending melt down).
Thanks "Fly America" for making my travel experience one I won't soon forget.
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Thursday, April 19, 2007
I have really enjoyed my 7 months in Jordan. It was great to finally spend time with Yo, meet some new people, travel to Syria, conduct research and generally just get to know Jordan. My fellowship at ACOR(http://www.bu.edu/acor/) provided me with an excellent base from which to conduct my research, meet people and just hang out. The Director (BAP) and Asst. Director (CT) were gracious hosts and incredibly helpful. As an added bonus BAP makes a mean martini, which has become my new drink of choice... Here are some images of life at ACOR
Thursday night we (residents and fellows) usually cook, well really our Philippina friend Janet (that's Janet making a snowman) cooks because she is an awesome chef.
During the week we have our main meal of the day at 2:00pm where everyone gathers to eat some interesting delights cooked by Abu Ahmed, who has been cooking at ACOR for some 46 years. This is him with two of his sons, who also work at ACOR - Said the taxi driver (not really, but he was always gracious enough to give me a lift all over the city and we had a running joke that he was my personal taxi driver) and Abed the handyman.
Here is Miss A working diligently in the library. There is a great collection of books in the library, which made it all the easier for us to spend 10-12 hours day hanging out there. Yo basically took over a carrel and is now taking over my office.
I am off to Toronto late this evening for four days. I will get organized, repack and then head to Austin TX for the Society of American Archaeology meetings. From Austin I head directly to Greece where I meet the students at the Athens port of Piraeus. We then embark on our 6 week excavation adventure on Keros. We have no Internet access on the island, so I won't be doing any blogging until I get back to Canada at the end of June. I am sure that I will have many adventures to report on... Until then, I leave you in the capable hands of Yo, who will continue his adventures in Jordan. Next week they may be off to Bab ed Dhra and Numeira, so look for a post from him.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
We did not go all the way to the nature reserve, but we did see the very impressive Mujib Dam. The Wadi Mujib is the biblical Arnon River, which acted as the dividing line between the Moabites and the Amorites.
The map provides important details as to its 6th century landmarks, with the cardo (the central street colonnaded street and the church of the Holy Sepulchre. This map is one key in developing scholarly knowledge about the physical layout of Jerusalem after its destruction and rebuilding in 70CE.
After a great late lunch/early dinner at Haret Jdoudna, we travelled back to Amman and all decided that because we had a car we should go through the Starbucks drive through in Abdoun.
Our travelling companion J, a Starbucks barrista in another life, explained away the variability in coffee drinks as the difference between the preparer loving coffee and someone just doing their job. "Good coffee comes from the heart".
Friday, April 13, 2007
As with most things in the Middle East, nothing started on time, which was good for the fans as we were stuck in traffic and rerouted at least three times and ended up going the long way through Madaba. As we drove along the highway we looked for our running pals and finally spotted Miss A, who was way out in front. We rushed on to park the car and see them cross the finish line.
First Miss A (who was among or the first woman to finish the 10K)
And then Yo
The two runners
And after the race it was decided that we would treat the runners to the all-you-can-eat buffet at the very posh Movenpick Dead Sea Spa.
Tonight we are off to our favourite happy hour haunt - Nai and then to Fakhr ed-Din, a very tasty Lebanese restaurant. More pictures to follow...
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Sunday, April 8, 2007
We bought a rug (and I know there are many of you thinking, a rug, why do they need a rug, they don't even have a place to live), some table cloths and some interesting art. A bought an inlaid chest and B bought some pottery. We all bought scarves. Traffic in Damascus:
The next morning after some stomach upset, which we can only attribute to figs on a string, we headed back to Amman. The end of our Syrian adventure...
There are a lot of old cars in Damascus and here is Yo with just one example.
Friday, April 6, 2007
I was fortunate enough to catch a lift with C the Assistant Director at ACOR. We drove into Petra the back way (so I did not walk down the Siq as most tourists do) down through Beidha and then into the Park.
It was one of the first sunny and warm days we have had in a while, so there were a lot of tourists in the Park. Good for me as I was there to interview people about their visit, ask if they were offered real archaeological artifacts (illegal) to buy, and ask them what they ended up buying as a memento of their trip.
I also talked to a lot of the trinket sales people, the donkey drivers, and the guys with tea shops. It was a fascinating day. People were very friendly and happily answered many of my questions.
Currently there is campaign to nominate the new seven wonders of the world and Petra is among the nominees. I had many conversations yesterday about Petra and its nomination ("Why is the Sydney Opera House one of the nominees - that is just wrong" one tourist from Jordan stated. This is one of the signs reminding people to vote. If you want to vote or you want to see the other sites nominated check out: www.new7wonders.com/
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
The first fort was recorded in 1031, but it was the 12th century Crusaders who expanded Krac into the form that exists today. The Crusaders held the castle until 1271. We loved the Krac and had a great evening at the St. Francis hotel with some very LARGE whiskies and some candied fruit...
The next morning on our way back to Damascus we stopped off in Maloula. Maloula is an interesting little village, with houses set into the side of a cliff face.
There are some Muslims living here, but the population is predominantly Greek Catholic. Until very recently the main language of the village was a variation of Aramaic, the language thought to be spoken by Jesus. We visited a couple of sites and a gorge.
The Convent of St. Tecla (a pupil of St. Paul and one of the first Christian martyrs) and the Monastery of St. Sergius (where the remains of a Byzantine church remain). We also visited a mini-Siq (gorge) with 100s of other visitors.
Tuesday, April 3, 2007
Under the Mamelukes a citadel (Qala'at Mudiq) was built and the site became a popular stopoff point for pilgrims on their way to Mecca. One of the things that I (Mo) find intriguing about the Middle East is the way in which people document their trips to Mecca. In Palestine you often see images of boats, planes and car alongside the Kaaba (a large black cubical building thought to have been built by Abraham). This is a doorway in Aleppo indicating that someone has made the pilgrimage to Mecca.
My (Mo) research
As many of you know, we never take 'real' vacations, often combining work with play. When we visit archaeological sites I am always on the lookout for looting, tourist behaviours, and the types of archaeological souvenirs (artifacts) on sale. As we approached Apamea, our driver Khaled warned us that we would be offered archaeological artifacts to buy. He reminded us that it is illegal to buy artifacts and take them out of Syria. I read the same warning about Apamea in our guide books.
Sure enough, not five minutes into our visit to Apamea we were approached by some guys arriving on motorbikes. They had the ubiquitous coins, roman glass and some very poor imitation cylinder seals (of a type, which would not be found at a Roman site).
The artifact sellers (who knows if they were the looters) appeared almost from nowhere and we wondered how they knew we were there. As we walked down the cardo (the central north-south street in any Roman town) we looked over to a grassy knoll where we realized that all of the "sales people" were hanging out waiting for their unsuspecting prey. They all seemed quite unconcerned when we told them we were archaeologists and what they were doing was haram (forbidden). All fodder for future articles and/or the book.
We then continued on our way to the famous Crusader castle of Krac de Chevaliers (or the Krac as it referred to in the guide books).